An Amalfi Coast Road Trip

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This really was a dream trip for us. Laura and I both had the Amalfi Coast high on the list of places we wanted to visit.

In a country awash with stunning scenery and spectacular landscapes, the Amalfi Coast remains one of Italy’s most beautiful and popular destinations.

TRAVEL DAY & MINORI

We flew from Manchester to Rome in September 2019. We found flying into the capital to be much cheaper than flying to Naples. It also provided more options for car hire and gave us the chance to enjoy an easy and stress free introduction to the Italian roads.

Once we had passed Mount Vesuvius, it wasn’t long before we reached the jagged coastline and picturesque Amalfi Coast. Every twist and turn along the road was offering picture-postcard views. At least that is what Laura was telling me! At this stage I was still getting used to the Italian driving; so I had both eyes firmly on the car in front.

We approached our first stop, and then passed it. Several times. Google Maps did not seem to have any idea where our B&B was. We drove back and forwards through the narrow streets of Minori before ending up back on the main coastal road and being forced to head to the next town before turning back. We eventually ended up back in Minori and found our B&B perched high above the town. We chose this place for the view and it did not disappoint!

ACCOMMODATION: VILLA MARIETTA, MINORI

MINORI

MINORI

CONCA DEI MARINI

After breakfast we got back in the car and headed back down towards the coast and our next stop.

Whilst you can travel around the Amalfi Coast using public transport, we didn’t want to have to rely on buses (although boat is always an option) and felt the freedom of having a car to get to each accommodation was the right choice for us. There are a lot of scare stories online about driving along this coast. I can’t comment on what it’s like at the height of summer but we quickly got used to it. Plan your journey, give space to the tour buses, relax and enjoy it.

We chose to stay in Conca dei Marini for the next few days as it’s perfectly positioned between Amalfi and Positano. Our second B&B didn’t disappoint either. The only downside was the steep steps down to the rooms, but the view from our room and private access to the sea was worth it! The B&B’s restaurant was just across the road and the owner and his family were so friendly and helpful. It was a great base and got us excited to explore more of this amazing coastline.

ACCOMMODATION: B&B DA CLAUDIO

FAVOURITE PLACE TO EAT: RISTORANTE DA CICCIO (INCREDIBLE FOOD HERE!)

B&B DA CLAUDIO - OUR ROOM WAS ACROSS FROM THE LITTLE BLUE BOAT YOU CAN SEE.

B&B DA CLAUDIO - OUR ROOM WAS ACROSS FROM THE LITTLE BLUE BOAT YOU CAN SEE.

AMALFI & POSITANO

On a trip like this it’s important to have days off the road. Park the car, explore on foot or simply relax. The deep blue waters of the Mediterranean were perfect for snorkelling and a welcome break from the 30ºC heat!

Next up was Amalfi. This was one of our favourite places. A bustling little town full of character with the famous Duomo di Sant’Andrea overlooking a picturesque historic centre. If you’re after one of the best pizzas in the area, make sure to visit Ristorante La Piazzetta in the main square.

A place we’d heard a lot about and a must-do on any Amalfi Coast road trip is Positano. We decided to get the boat from Amalfi. It’s the most touristy part of the coast and the traffic can get extremely congested. This colourful coastal town is a popular Instagram picture spot and it’s clear why. It’s lined with high-end restaurants, boutique hotels and some of the most spectacular views in the region.

After enjoying drinks by the beach and exploring the maze of alleys in this glamorous little town, we headed up the many steps to our restaurant for the evening. The view, the food, the wine - I couldn’t fault a thing! Whilst I preferred the laid-back atmosphere of Amalfi to its louder neighbour, Positano is stunning and somewhere I would love to visit again.

FAVOURITE PLACE TO EAT: lL CAPITANO

POSITANO

POSITANO

SORRENTO

After a few days enjoying the coast by boat, it was time to get back in the car and head towards Sorrento. Another beautiful town with a vibrant food scene, crystal clear waters and historic centre. It’s a major hub in the region with connections and day trips to Naples, Capri and further afield. We spent the day here and it didn’t take much walking around before we were eager to get back in the sea.

Whilst Sorrento has a lot to offer, we were glad we chose to base ourselves in a quieter spot along the coast. Conca dei Marini was such a great base for us; away from the crowds but with these other towns only a stones throw away.

We decided to drop our hire car off in Sorrento and use the boat to get back to our accommodation in Conca. Another night there and it was time to leave the mainland.

SORRENTO

SORRENTO

ISCHIA

The next stop on our Italian adventure was a little island in the Bay of Naples. No, not Capri.

Ischia is about a one hour ferry ride from Sorrento and is often missed by tourists choosing to go to its glitzier neighbour. Do not miss it! I could easily spend two or three weeks here. It’s stunning sandy beaches, cute fishing villages, laid-back lifestyle, thermal spas and incredible seafood make it a real hidden gem.

Our accommodation for the next 4 nights was Hotel Parco Conte in Casamicciola. The owner gave us so many recommendations on places to go and and places to eat. We wondered how we were going to fit it all in. One of our highlights was Sant’ Angelo. A beautiful fishing village on the south side of the Island (no cars allowed) with quiet little streets, walks across the bay and an amazing selection of restaurants. It felt a million miles from the busier Amalfi Coast.

Hiring a boat is a great way to get around and see the island. We did this on our final day and it was one of the highlights of the trip. It cost around €145 including fuel.

ACCOMMODATION: HOTEL PARCO CONTE, ISHCIA

FAVOURITE PLACE TO EAT: CANTINANDO (WE WENT HERE TWICE IT WAS THAT GOOD)

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Our final stop was Rome, but that’s another blog post. Feel free to get in touch if you are planning a trip to the Amalfi Coast once travel restrictions are lifted and it is safe to do so.

TOP TIPS:

  • Plan ahead but be flexible when you do things. Don’t try to fit too much in.

  • Taxis are expensive so be prepared to use other forms of transport. Buses get VERY busy so we tried to use ferries where possible.

  • If you hire a car, get the smallest one you can.

  • Don’t attempt to take your car and park in towns - leave it parked at your accommodation. There aren’t many places to park and it costs a fortune.

  • Make the most of the food whilst you’re there; you’ll miss it when you’re back home!

  • Hire a boat in Ischia - it’s great fun and a really good way to see the island.

  • Stay in small B&Bs, they might not be fancy but the friendliness of the owners makes your holiday really special.

  • We took standard European plug adaptors. These don’t work in many places on the Amalfi Coast…but we weirdly found they often worked in shaving sockets.